A

Acacia Senegal Gum

Plant-based (from the acacia tree) Description/Benefits: Used as a natural thickener and stabilizer in cosmetic formulations. It can also have moisturizing properties and leave the skin feeling pleasant.

Acorus Calamus (Sweet Flag) Root Extract

Plant-based, often organic (➀)Description/Benefits: Traditionally known for its soothing and astringent properties. Can help clarify and tone skincare.

Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut) Seed Extract

Plant-based, often organic (➀)Description/Benefits: Rich in aescin, an active ingredient known to strengthen blood vessels and reduce swelling. Often used in products for tired legs or for couperose care; can also have a soothing effect.

Alcohol

May be of plant origin, sometimes produced using organic raw materials (➀)Description/Benefits: Serves a variety of purposes in cosmetics: as a solvent, for preservation, or to improve the absorption of other substances. In low concentrations and in combination with skincare ingredients, it is generally unproblematic; in high concentrations, it can have a drying effect. The type of alcohol (e.g., fatty alcohols vs. denatured alcohol) is crucial.

Algae (Algae) Extract (Algae Extract)

Plant-based (from algae) Description/Benefits: Algae are rich in minerals, vitamins, and antioxidants. They can intensively moisturize, protect, soothe, and support skin regeneration. The specific benefits vary depending on the type of algae.

Algin (alginate)

Naturally derived from brown algae. Description/Benefits: Used as a natural gelling and thickening agent. May also have moisturizing properties and form a protective film on the skin.

Allantoin

Can be produced synthetically or biotechnologically; also occurs naturally in plants such as comfrey. Description/Benefits: Known for its skin-soothing, smoothing, and regenerative properties. Supports cell regeneration and helps soften rough skin. Ideal for sensitive or irritated skin.

Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe) Leaf Juice / Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe) Leaf Juice (Aloe Vera Juice)

Plant-based, often organic (➀ / *)Description/Benefits: A master of soothing and hydrating. Rich in vitamins, minerals, and amino acids. Provides intensive moisture, soothes irritation, supports regeneration, and strengthens the skin barrier. Suitable for all skin types.

Alpha-Arbutin

Can be of plant origin (e.g., from bearberry leaves) or synthetically produced. Description/Benefits: A well-known active ingredient for lightening dark spots and promoting an even skin tone by inhibiting melanin production. Considered a gentler alternative to other lightening agents.

Alteromonas Ferment Extract (extract from Alteromonas bacterial ferment)

Biotechnologically produced (through the fermentation of marine bacteria)Description/Benefits: A marine ingredient known for its ability to soothe, moisturize, and protect the skin from environmental aggressors. May also support skin regeneration.

Anhydroxylitol

Plant-derived (often derived from wood sugar). Description/Benefits: Part of a moisturizing complex (often together with xylitol and xylitylglucosides). Helps strengthen the skin barrier and optimize skin's moisture balance by reducing water loss and improving water circulation.

Arachidyl Alcohol

Plant-based (fatty alcohol) Description/Benefits: A mild, nourishing fatty alcohol that acts as an emollient, thickener, and emulsion stabilizer. It softens the skin and prevents drying.

Arachidyl Glucoside (Arachidyl Glucoside)

Plant-based (from arachidyl alcohol and glucose) Description/Benefits: A mild emulsifier of plant origin that helps combine oil and water in creams. Contributes to a pleasant skin feel.

Arctium Lappa (Burdock) Root Extract (burdock root extract)

Plant-based, often organic (➀)Description/Benefits: Traditionally known for its cleansing, sebum-regulating, and anti-inflammatory properties. Often used in products for blemished or oily skin.

Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernel Oil (Argan Oil)

Plant-based (from the kernels of the argan tree), often organically grown (➀)Description/Benefits: A valuable oil rich in vitamin E, antioxidants, and essential fatty acids. Intensively nourishes, protects the skin from drying out, promotes elasticity, and has a regenerating effect. Suitable for dry, mature, and demanding skin.

Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract (Knotweed Extract)

Plant-based (from a type of brown algae) Description/Benefits: Rich in minerals, vitamins, and polysaccharides. Known for its moisturizing, antioxidant, and skin-soothing properties. Can revitalize and protect the skin.

Ascorbyl Palmitate (Ascorbyl Palmitate)

A fat-soluble form of vitamin C. Description/Benefits: Acts as an antioxidant, protecting skin and products from oxidation. May help improve skin tone and support collagen production, but is less potent than pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid).

Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter (Murumuru Butter)

Plant-based (from the seeds of the Murumuru palm) Description/Benefits: A rich, exotic butter that intensely moisturizes, strengthens the skin barrier, and softens the skin without leaving a heavy film. Similar to shea butter, but often with a lighter texture.

Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Oil

Plant-based, often organic (➀)Description/Benefits: Rich in lipids, avenanthramides, and vitamin E. Known for its highly soothing, moisturizing, and barrier-supporting properties. Ideal for dry, sensitive, and irritated skin.

B

Bakuchiol

Plant-based (from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant) Description/Benefits: Considered a natural and gentler alternative to retinol. It has antioxidant properties, can reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, stimulate collagen production, and improve the appearance of skin without the typical irritation of retinol.

Behenyl Alcohol

Plant-based (fatty alcohol) Description/Benefits: A nourishing fatty alcohol used as an emollient, thickener, and emulsion stabilizer. It leaves the skin soft and supple.

Behentrimonium Chloride

Cationic surfactant, often used in hair care.Description/Benefits: Improves hair combability, has an antistatic effect, and makes hair soft and smooth.

Benzoic Acid

Can occur synthetically or naturally (e.g. in berries).Description/Use: Used as a preservative in cosmetics to inhibit the growth of microorganisms.

Benzoin (benzoin resin)

A natural resin from the benzoin tree. The "benzines" reference in your "self-named" blacklist likely referred to benzene and its derivatives, not to benzoin resin, which is used in perfumery. I assume entries like "Cananga Odorata Oil/Extract" etc. are fragrance components. If "benzines" actually meant benzoin resin, this would have to be considered a fragrance or fixative. Since "benzines" was listed as a no-go, I assume that benzoin resin extracts, if they fall under this category, are not used. The individual fragrance components like linalool, etc., are listed below.

Benzyl Alcohol

Can be synthetically produced or occur naturally in some essential oils and fruits. Description/Use: Used as a preservative and fragrance. Considered safe in small amounts, but is a declarable allergen when derived from natural essential oils and in concentrations above certain levels.

Benzyl Salicylate

Fragrance, can be synthetic or naturally occurring (e.g., in ylang-ylang essential oils). Description/Benefits: Imparts a sweet, floral scent. Is a declarable allergen.

Beta-caryophyllene

Natural component of many essential oils (e.g., clove, rosemary, hops). Description/Benefits: A sesquiterpene known for its spicy scent. It also has anti-inflammatory and calming properties. Can be used as a fragrance or skin-conditioning agent.

Betaine (Betaine)

Natural, often derived from sugar beets. Description/Benefits: An amino acid derivative that provides moisture, protects the skin barrier, and can soothe irritation. Helps balance the skin's water balance and provides a pleasant skin feel.

Bidens Pilosa Extract (Bidens Pilosa Extract)

Plant-based Description/Benefits: A plant extract often used as a natural retinol alternative ("Bio-Retinol"). It can help reduce signs of aging, improve skin texture, and has antioxidant and soothing properties.

Bisabolol

Main active ingredient of chamomile, but can also be produced biotechnologically. Description/Benefits: Known for its powerful skin-soothing, anti-inflammatory, and regenerative properties. Ideal for sensitive, irritated skin.

Borago Officinalis (Borage) Seed Oil

Plant-based, often organically grown (➀)Description/Benefits: Very rich in gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), an omega-6 fatty acid. It has strong anti-inflammatory, regenerating, and moisturizing effects. Ideal for dry, itchy, flaky, and atopic dermatitis skin.

Brassica Alcohol

Plant-based (fatty alcohol, often derived from rapeseed oil) Description/Benefits: A conditioning fatty alcohol that acts as an emollient, thickener, and co-emulsifier. Improves the texture of products and softens skin and hair.

Brassicyl Isoleucinate Esylate

Plant-based, often used in hair care. Description/Benefits: A biodegradable conditioner that detangles, softens, and adds shine to hair. Considered an environmentally friendly alternative to some conventional conditioners.

Butylene Glycol (Butylene Glycol)

Can be produced synthetically or from plant sources. Description/Benefits: A humectant and solvent that can improve the viscosity of products and help other active ingredients penetrate the skin better. Considered safe and well-tolerated at cosmetic concentrations.

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (Shea Butter)

Plant-based (from the nuts of the shea tree), often organically grown (➀). Intensively nourishing and protective, especially for dry and stressed skin. Rich in fatty acids, vitamin E, and allantoin. Strengthens the skin barrier, retains moisture, has a soothing effect, and leaves the skin velvety soft.

C

Caffeine

Plant-based (e.g., from coffee beans, tea leaves) or synthetic. Description/Benefits: Known for its stimulating effect. In skin care, it is often used for its circulation-promoting, decongestant (e.g., for dark circles under the eyes), and firming properties. It can also have antioxidant effects.

Calendula Officinalis (Calendula) Flower Extract

Plant-based, often organically grown (➀)Description/Benefits: A traditional medicinal plant extract known for its powerful soothing, anti-inflammatory, and wound-healing properties. Ideal for sensitive, irritated, dry, or chapped skin.

Camellia Sinensis (Black Tea) Leaf Extract

Plant-based, often organically grown (➀)Description/Benefits: Rich in antioxidants (polyphenols, flavonoids) and may also contain caffeine. Protects the skin from free radicals, can have a soothing and revitalizing effect.

Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract

Plant-based, often organic (➀)Description/Benefits: A powerhouse of antioxidants (especially EGCG). Protects the skin from oxidative stress and environmental influences, has anti-inflammatory and soothing effects, and may help prevent signs of aging.

Camellia Sinensis (White Tea) Leaf Extract

Plant-based, often organically grown (➀)Description/Benefits: Considered particularly rich in antioxidants, as it is extracted from young tea leaves. It intensively protects the skin from free radicals, has a soothing effect, and can help firm skin.

Cananga Odorata Oil/Extract (Ylang Ylang Oil/Extract)

Herbal (from the flowers of the ylang-ylang tree) Description/Benefits: An essential oil with an intense, sweet-floral scent. It is valued in aromatherapy for its relaxing and mood-enhancing properties. It is used primarily as a fragrance in cosmetics. Contains natural fragrance components such as linalool, geraniol, etc.

Cannabidiol – Derived From Extract Or Tincture Or Resin Of Cannabis (Cannabidiol - CBD)

Plant-based (derived from hemp) Description/Benefits: Known for its powerful soothing, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. Can help relieve redness, balance stressed skin, and regulate sebum production. Non-psychoactive.

Cannabis Sativa (Hemp) Seed Oil

Plant-based (from hemp seeds), often organically grown (➀)Description/Benefits: Rich in essential fatty acids (omega-3 and omega-6), vitamins, and antioxidants. It has powerful regenerating, anti-inflammatory, and soothing properties. It is non-comedogenic, making it ideal for dry, sensitive, mature, or blemish-prone skin.

Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides (caprylic/capric acid triglyceride)

Plant-based (often made from coconut or palm oil and glycerin) Description/Benefits: A neutral oil that is very well tolerated and absorbs quickly without leaving a greasy film. Acts as an emollient (makes the skin soft and supple) and helps distribute other active ingredients.

Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic triglycerides

Plant-based (a mixture of triglycerides of various fatty acids) Description/Benefits: A versatile emollient that conditions, smooths, and moisturizes the skin. Improves the texture of products.

Caprylyl Glycol (Caprylyl Glycol)

Can be produced synthetically or plant-based. Description/Benefits: A multifunctional ingredient. It has moisturizing and antimicrobial properties (can help reduce the use of other preservatives), and improves the skin feel of products.

Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside

Plant-based (from coconut or palm kernel oil and glucose) Description/Benefits: A very mild sugar surfactant that gently cleanses without over-drying the skin. Highly biodegradable.

Capsicum Annuum (Paprika) Fruit Extract

Plant-based, often organic (➀)Description/Benefits: Rich in vitamin C and carotenoids (antioxidants). Can protect the skin from free radicals and stimulate circulation, which can lead to a fresher complexion. Also serves as a natural colorant.

Carrageenan (carrageen)

Naturally derived from red algae. Description/Benefits: Used as a natural thickener, gelling, and stabilizing agent. It can also have moisturizing properties and form a light film on the skin.

Cedrus Atlantica Oil/Extract (Atlas cedar oil/extract)

Herbal (from Atlas cedar wood) Description/Benefits: An essential oil with a woody, warm scent. It is valued in aromatherapy for its grounding and calming properties. It is used in cosmetics as a fragrance and for its astringent and antiseptic properties.

Cellulose (cellulose)

Plant-based (main component of plant cell walls) Description/Benefits: Used in cosmetics as a thickener, filler, matting agent, or to improve texture. Can also bind moisture.

Cellulose Gum

Vegetable derivative (modified cellulose)Description/Benefits: A natural thickening and stabilizing agent that increases the viscosity of products and provides a pleasant texture.

Centella Asiatica Extract (Tiger Grass Extract)

Herbal Description/Benefits: Legendary for its wound-healing, deeply soothing, and regenerating properties. Stimulates collagen production, strengthens the skin barrier, and soothes irritation. Ideal for sensitive, stressed, or blemished skin.

Ceratonia Siliqua Gum (Locust Bean Gum)

Plant-based (from the seeds of the carob tree)Description/Benefits: A natural thickening and gelling agent that also has moisturizing properties and improves the texture of products.

Cetearyl Alcohol

Plant-based (a blend of cetyl and stearyl alcohol, both fatty alcohols). Description/Benefits: A nourishing, non-drying fatty alcohol. Acts as an emollient (softens the skin), co-emulsifier (helps combine oil and water), and thickener. Improves the consistency and application feel of creams and lotions.

Chamomilla Recutita (Camomile) Flower Extract

Plant-based, often organically grown (➀)Description/Benefits: One of the best-known medicinal plant extracts. It has a strong soothing, anti-inflammatory, and anti-irritant effect. Ideal for sensitive, irritated, or allergy-prone skin. Contains bisabolol and apigenin as the main active ingredients.

Charcoal Powder (activated charcoal powder)

Often made from bamboo or coconut shells. Description/Benefits: Known for its highly absorbent properties, it draws excess sebum, dirt, and impurities out of the pores like a magnet. Often used in cleansing masks and products for oily or blemished skin.

Chlorella Vulgaris Extract (Chlorella algae extract)

Plant-based (from a freshwater microalgae) Description/Benefits: Rich in amino acids, peptides, vitamins, and minerals. Can moisturize the skin, stimulate collagen production, provide antioxidant benefits, and contribute to detoxification.

CI 77019 (Mica)

Natural (Mineral) Description/Benefit: A mineral pigment that gives products a shimmering or glittering effect. Often used in color cosmetics, but also in skincare products for a subtle glow.

CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499 (Iron Oxides) (Iron Oxides)

Natural (mineral pigments) (➂ / ➃)Description/Benefits: Natural color pigments (red, yellow, black) used to color cosmetic products. They are considered very safe and well-tolerated.

CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide)

Natural (mineral pigment) (➂ / ➃)Description/Use: A white mineral pigment used as a colorant, to brighten products, or as a mineral UV filter (in higher concentrations and specific particle sizes).

Citral

Natural fragrance, main component of lemon and lemongrass oil (from natural essential oils ➁ / **). Description/Benefits: Provides a fresh citrus scent. Is a declarable allergen.

Citric Acid

Can be produced naturally (e.g., from citrus fruits) or biotechnologically. Description/Benefits: Used to regulate pH in cosmetic products. In higher concentrations, it can also have a mild exfoliating effect (AHA).

Citronellol

Natural fragrance, found in many essential oils (e.g., rose, geranium, citronella) (from natural essential oils ➁) Description/Benefits: Imparts a fresh, often rose-like or lemony scent. Is a declarable allergen.

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Peel Oil (Bergamot Oil)

Plant-derived (from the peel of the bergamot fruit) Description/Benefits: Essential oil with a fresh, tangy citrus scent and light floral notes. Used as a fragrance, it can have a mood-enhancing effect. Contains natural fragrance components such as limonene and linalool. (Caution: May be phototoxic if not furanocoumarin-free.)

Citrus Aurantium Peel Oil (orange oil / bitter orange oil)

Plant-based (from orange peel) Description/Benefits: Essential oil with a sweet, fresh orange scent. Used as a fragrance. Contains natural fragrance components such as limonene.

Citrus Limon Peel Oil (Lemon Peel Oil)

Plant-based (from lemon peel) Description/Benefits: Essential oil with a very fresh, clean citrus scent. Used as a fragrance, it can have an invigorating effect. Contains natural fragrance components such as limonene and citral. (Caution: May be phototoxic.)

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate

Plant-based (esters of coconut alcohol with caprylic and capric acids) Description/Benefits: A light, fast-absorbing emollient that softens the skin without a greasy residue. A natural alternative to silicone oils for a silky-smooth skin feel.

Coco-glucoside (coconut glucoside)

Plant-based (from coconut fatty alcohols and glucose) Description/Benefits: A very mild sugar surfactant that gently cleanses and lathers well without over-drying the skin. Highly biodegradable and suitable for sensitive skin and baby products.

Cocamidopropyl Betaine (Cocamidopropyl Betaine)

Amphiphilic surfactant, often derived from coconut oil. Description/Benefits: A mild co-surfactant that supports the cleaning power of other surfactants, improves lather, and increases skin tolerance. It is less drying than pure sulfate surfactants.

Coconut Alkanes

Plant-based (derived from coconut oil) Description/Benefits: A light, non-greasy blend of alkanes that acts as a natural emollient. It gives products a silky feel and improves spreadability. A natural alternative to silicones.

Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil

Plant-based (from coconut flesh), often organically grown (➀)Description/Benefits: Rich in saturated fatty acids (especially lauric acid). Moisturizes, has antimicrobial properties, and keeps skin and hair soft. May be comedogenic on some skin types.

Coumarin (coumarin)

Natural fragrance, found in tonka beans, cinnamon, and woodruff (from natural essential oils ➂). Description/Benefits: Provides a sweet, warm scent reminiscent of vanilla or hay. Is a declarable allergen.

Crambe Maritima (Sea Kale) Leaf Extract

Herbal Description/Benefits: A sea kale extract rich in minerals and antioxidants. Can help protect the skin from oxidative stress, soothe it, and strengthen its resilience.

Crithmum Maritimum Extract (samphire extract)

Herbal Description/Benefits: A coastal plant rich in vitamin C, minerals, and essential oils. It can revitalize the skin, act as an antioxidant, stimulate cell renewal, and contribute to a radiant complexion.

Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract

Plant-based, often organic (➀)Description/Benefits: Known for its refreshing, moisturizing, and soothing properties. Rich in water, vitamins, and minerals. Ideal for cooling and revitalizing tired skin.

D

D-Panthenol (Provitamin B5) (Panthenol)

Often produced biotechnologically. Description/Benefits: Converted to pantothenic acid (vitamin B5) in the skin. It has a strong moisturizing, soothing, anti-inflammatory effect and promotes wound healing. Strengthens the skin barrier and improves skin elasticity.

Decyl Cocoate

Plant-based (esters of decyl alcohol and coconut oil fatty acids)Description/Benefits: A light, easily absorbed emollient that leaves skin soft and supple without leaving a greasy film.

Dicaprylyl Carbonate (Dicaprylyl Carbonate)

May be of plant origin or synthetic. Description/Benefits: A dry emollient that absorbs very quickly, leaving a light, silky feel on the skin. Improves the spreadability of products and can help disperse mineral UV filters better.

Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline

Plant-based (amino acid derivative) Description/Benefits: An anti-aging ingredient designed to stimulate collagen synthesis, improve skin firmness, and reduce the appearance of wrinkles. It also has moisturizing and antioxidant properties.

Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate (disodium cocoyl glutamate)

Mild amino acid-based surfactant (from coconut oil and glutamic acid). Description/Benefits: A very mild, skin-friendly surfactant that gently cleanses and forms a creamy lather. Highly biodegradable and suitable for sensitive skin.

Distearoylethyl Dimonium Chloride

Cationic ingredient, often plant-based, commonly used in hair care.Description/Benefits: A biodegradable conditioner that conditions, detangles, softens, and adds shine to hair.

E

Echinacea Purpurea (Coneflower) Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract (Coneflower Extract)

Plant-based, often organically grown (➀)Description/Benefits: Known for its immune-stimulating, anti-inflammatory, and wound-healing properties. Can soothe the skin and strengthen its resilience.

Ectoine (Ectoine)

Biotechnologically produced (through the fermentation of extremophilic bacteria) Description/Benefits: A cell-protective molecule that protects the skin from stressors such as UV radiation, dryness, heat, and environmental pollution. Provides long-lasting moisture, stabilizes cell membranes, and has an anti-inflammatory effect.

Escin (Aescin)

Main active ingredient of horse chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum) Description/Benefits: Known for its vascular strengthening, decongestant, and anti-inflammatory properties. Often used to treat heavy legs, swelling, or rosacea.

F

Fragaria Ananassa (Strawberry) Fruit Extract

Plant-based, often organic (➀)Description/Benefits: Rich in vitamin C, antioxidants (ellagic acid), and fruit acids. Can brighten the skin, act as an astringent, protect against free radicals, and contribute to a fresh complexion.

Fragaria Ananassa (Strawberry) Seed Oil

Plant-based, often organic (➀)Description/Benefits: A light oil, rich in essential fatty acids (linoleic, alpha-linolenic, and oleic acid) and antioxidants such as ellagic acid and vitamin E. Moisturizes, keeps the skin supple, soothing, and protective.

Fucus Vesiculosus Thalle Extract (Bladderwrack Extract)

Plant-based (from a type of brown algae). Rich in iodine, minerals, vitamins, and polysaccharides (fucoidan). It can moisturize the skin, stimulate metabolism, have a firming effect, and possess antioxidant properties.

G

Geraniol

Natural fragrance, the main component of many essential oils such as rose oil, geranium oil, and palmarosa oil (from natural essential oils ➁ / ➂). Description/Benefits: Imparts a sweet, floral scent, often reminiscent of roses. Is a declarable allergen.

Geranyl Acetate (geranyl acetate)

Natural fragrance, found in many essential oils (e.g., geranium, lavender, lemon) (from natural essential oils ➁) Description/Benefits: Has a fruity-floral, often rose-like scent. Used as a fragrance component. Is a declarable allergen.

Ginkgo Biloba (Gingko) Leaf Extract

Plant-based, often organically grown (➀)Description/Benefits: Rich in flavonoids and terpenoids, known for their powerful antioxidant and circulation-promoting properties. It can protect the skin from free radicals, improve microcirculation, oxygenate skin cells, and have a revitalizing effect.

Glucose (grape sugar)

Natural (simple sugar)Description/Benefits: Acts as a humectant by binding water and helping to moisturize the skin. Can also be part of fermentation processes.

Glucuronic Acid

A uronic acid that occurs naturally in the body (e.g., as a building block of hyaluronic acid). Can also be produced biotechnologically. Description/Benefits: Moisturizing and can support skin elasticity. Often found in moisturizing complexes in combination with rhamnose and glucose.

Glycerin (Glycerol)

Can be of plant, animal, or synthetic origin. At Flam Skin, it is often plant-based and/or produced using organic raw materials (➁). Description/Benefits: One of the best-known and most effective humectants in skin care. Draws water from the environment and the deeper layers of the skin to the surface, protecting against dehydration and keeping the skin supple. Strengthens the skin barrier.

Glyceryl Caprylate (Glyceryl Caprylate)

Plant-derived (esters of glycerin and caprylic acid) Description/Benefits: A multifunctional ingredient. Acts as a co-emulsifier, emollient (softens the skin), and has antimicrobial properties, which can help preserve products.

Glyceryl Oleate (Glyceryl Oleate)

Plant-based (esters of glycerin and oleic acid) Description/Benefits: An emollient and emulsifier that softens and smooths the skin. It helps to combine oil and water in formulations and can also serve as a moisturizing component in cleansing products.

Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

Plant-based (esters of glycerin, stearic acid, and citric acid) Description/Benefits: A mild, skin-friendly emulsifier that helps stably combine oil and water phases. Leaves skin feeling pleasant and cared for.

Glycolipids

Can be obtained biotechnologically or from plant sources. Description/Benefits: Belong to the group of biosurfactants (biological surfactants). They act as very mild cleansing agents or emulsifiers. Can also support the skin barrier and provide moisture.

Glycosphingolipids (glycosphingolipids)

Lipids that also occur naturally in the skin (part of ceramides). Can be obtained biotechnologically or from plant sources. Description/Benefits: Important components of the skin barrier. Help strengthen the skin structure, prevent moisture loss, and protect the skin from external influences. Have a regenerating and nourishing effect.

Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil (Cottonseed Oil)

Plant-basedDescription/Benefits: A light oil rich in essential fatty acids (especially linoleic acid) and vitamin E. It keeps the skin soft, has an antioxidant effect, and can help strengthen the skin barrier.

Gracilaria Verrucosa Extract (red algae extract)

Plant-based (from a species of red algae) Description/Benefits: Rich in minerals, polysaccharides, and antioxidants. Can moisturize, firm, and protect the skin. Supports skin elasticity.

Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride

A plant-based derivative (from guar gum), often used in hair care products. Description/Benefits: A conditioning agent that improves manageability, reduces frizz, and leaves hair feeling soft and manageable. It also has an antistatic effect.

H

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Cera (Sunflower Wax)

Plant-based (from sunflower seeds) Description/Benefits: A natural wax that acts as a thickener and emollient. Forms a light protective film on the skin, retaining moisture and making it soft without stickiness.

Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil

Plant-based, often organically grown (➀)Description/Benefits: A light, well-tolerated plant oil rich in vitamin E (antioxidant) and linoleic acid (omega-6 fatty acid). It keeps the skin supple, supports the skin barrier, and has an anti-inflammatory effect. It is easily absorbed and suitable for many skin types.

Hippophae Rhamnoides (Sea Buckthorn) Fruit Extract / Fruit Oil

Plant-based (from the fruits or seeds of sea buckthorn), often organically grown (➀ / *)Description/Benefits: A powerhouse of vitamins (especially vitamins C and E), carotenoids (provitamin A), flavonoids, and essential fatty acids. It has powerful antioxidant, regenerating, anti-inflammatory, and cell-protective effects. Promotes wound healing and gives the skin a healthy glow.

Hydrated Silica

Mineral Description/Benefits: Used as a thickener, absorber (e.g., for oil), or mild abrasive (in scrubs). Can help improve the texture of products and create a matte finish.

Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides

Plant-based (from coconut oil and glycerin) Description/Benefits: An emollient that softens and smooths the skin. It also acts as a consistency agent in emulsions.

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Biotechnologically derived (hyaluronic acid broken down into smaller molecules) Description/Benefits: Due to its smaller molecular size, it can penetrate deeper into the skin than high-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid, providing long-lasting hydration. It has a plumping effect and improves skin elasticity.

Hydrolyzed Rhodophyceae Extract (Hydrolyzed Red Algae Extract)

Plant-derived (from red algae) Description/Benefits: An extract rich in peptides and oligosaccharides. Known for its ability to moisturize the skin, support collagen production, and protect the skin from oxidative stress.

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein

Herbal Description/Benefits: Penetrates skin and hair, moisturizes, improves elasticity, and forms a protective film. In hair, it can help repair damage and add volume.

Hydroxyethyl Urea (Hydroxyethylurea)

SyntheticDescription/Benefits: A highly effective humectant that provides the skin with intense, long-lasting moisture without leaving a sticky feeling. Improves skin elasticity and suppleness.

I

Irvingia Gabonensis (Wild Mango) Kernel Butter (Wild Mango Butter / Dika Butter)

Plant-based (from the seeds of the African wild mango) Description/Benefits: A rich butter that moisturizes, nourishes, and soothes the skin. It can also help regulate oil production and promote a matte complexion.

Isoamyl Laurate (isoamyl laurate)

Plant-based (ester)Description/Benefits: A very light, fast-absorbing emollient that leaves skin feeling silky and non-greasy. A natural alternative to silicone oils.

Isostearic Acid

May be of plant or synthetic origin (fatty acid). Description/Benefits: Acts as an emollient, emulsifier, or cleansing agent. Makes the skin soft and supple.

J

Jania Rubens Extract (Jania Rubens algae extract)

Plant-based (from a calcified red algae) Description/Benefits: Rich in minerals and trace elements, especially taurine. Can revitalize and moisturize the skin, increase cellular energy, and protect against oxidative stress.

Jasminum Officinale (Jasmine) Extract

Herbal Description/Benefits: Known for its intense, captivating floral scent. It is primarily used as a fragrance in cosmetics. It may also have skin-soothing and antioxidant properties.

Jojoba Esters

Plant-based (from jojoba oil) Description/Benefits: An emollient very similar to human sebum. Intensively nourishes the skin, moisturizing it, and leaving it soft and supple without a greasy residue. Can also be used as a body scrub or as a gentle exfoliating granule.

K

Kaolin (china clay / white clay)

Natural (Mineral) Description/Benefits: A very mild clay known for its absorbing and cleansing properties. Gently draws excess sebum and impurities from the skin without over-drying. Ideal for sensitive and normal to slightly oily skin.

Potassium Hydroxide (Potassium Hydroxide)

Mineral/SyntheticDescription/Use: Used in small amounts for pH regulation in cosmetic products (to raise the pH when it is too acidic). In higher concentrations, it is used to saponify fats in soapmaking.

Potassium Sorbate

Sorbic acid salt, which can be obtained synthetically or naturally (e.g., from rowan berries). A mild preservative that inhibits the growth of fungi, yeasts, and some bacteria, thus extending the shelf life of products.

L

Lactic acid

Can be produced biotechnologically (by fermenting sugar) or synthetically. It is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). Description/Benefits: Acts as a mild exfoliator by gently removing dead skin cells. Improves skin texture, can reduce the appearance of fine lines, brighten the complexion, and increase skin moisture levels. In lower concentrations, it also serves to regulate pH.

Laminaria digitata (finger tang)

Plant-based (from a type of brown algae) Description/Benefits: Rich in minerals, vitamins (especially B vitamins), amino acids, and trace elements. It can intensively moisturize, remineralize, firm, and support cell regeneration.

Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract (Golden Seaweed / Golden Algae Extract)

Plant-based (from a type of brown algae) Description/Benefits: Known for its ability to protect the skin from UV-induced damage and inflammation (but does not act as a UV filter replacement!). Strengthens the skin barrier, moisturizes, and has a soothing effect.

Lauryl Glucoside (Lauryl Glucoside)

Plant-based (made from lauryl alcohol – often from coconut oil – and glucose). Description/Benefits: A very mild sugar surfactant that gently cleanses and lathers well. Particularly skin-friendly and readily biodegradable. Ideal for sensitive skin.

Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower Water (lavender flower water / lavender hydrosol)

Plant-based (a byproduct of steam distillation of lavender flowers), often organically grown (➀)Description/Benefits: Has a gentle lavender scent. Has a calming, balancing, and slightly antiseptic effect on the skin. Can help relieve irritation and refresh the skin.

Lavandula Oil/Extract (Lavender Oil/Extract)

Plant-derived (from lavender flowers) Description/Benefits: Essential oil with a characteristic, calming scent. It is valued in aromatherapy for its relaxing properties. It is used in cosmetics as a fragrance and for its antiseptic and skin-soothing properties. Contains natural fragrance components such as linalool and limonene.

Lecithin (Lecithin)

Can be of plant (e.g., soy, sunflower) or animal origin. Plant lecithin is used in vegan cosmetics. Description/Benefits: A natural emulsifier that helps bind oil and water. It also has a moisturizing, replenishing, and softens the skin. Can improve the absorption of other active ingredients.

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Biotechnologically produced (through fermentation of radish roots with Leuconostoc bacteria) Description/Benefits: A natural preservative with antimicrobial properties. Can also have a moisturizing effect.

Limonene

Natural fragrance, main component of citrus oils (lemon, orange, bergamot, etc.) (from natural essential oils ➁ / ➂ / **)Description/Benefits: Provides a fresh, tangy citrus scent. Is a declarable allergen.

Linalool

Natural fragrance, found in many essential oils (e.g., lavender, coriander, bergamot, rosewood) (from natural essential oils ➁ / ➂ / **)Description/Benefits: Provides a fresh, floral, often slightly spicy scent. Is a declarable allergen.

Linalyl Acetate (linalyl acetate)

Natural fragrance, main component of lavender and bergamot oil (from natural essential oils ➁). Description/Benefits: Has a floral-fruity, sweet scent. Used as a fragrance component. Is a declarable allergen.

Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil

Herbal Description/Benefits: Very rich in alpha-linolenic acid (an omega-3 fatty acid). It has powerful anti-inflammatory, regenerating, and soothing properties. Ideal for dry, sensitive, flaky, or inflamed skin conditions.

M

Maris Sal (sea salt)

Natural Description/Benefits: Rich in minerals and trace elements. Can be used in baths or scrubs to cleanse, remineralize, and stimulate circulation. It also has a mild disinfectant effect.

Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil

Herbal (from the leaves of the Australian tea tree) Description/Benefits: Known for its powerful antimicrobial (antibacterial, antiviral, antifungal) and anti-inflammatory properties. Often used specifically for blemishes, spots, or other skin infections. Must be used carefully and often diluted, as it can be irritating.

menthol

Main component of peppermint oil, but can also be produced synthetically (from natural essential oils ➂). Description/Benefits: Causes a cooling, refreshing sensation on the skin and has a characteristic minty scent. Can stimulate circulation and have a mild numbing effect. Used in small amounts.

Menthyl Lactate

Esters of menthol and lactic acid. Description/Benefits: Provides a long-lasting, mild cooling sensation on the skin, often gentler than pure menthol. Used for a refreshing effect.

Mica (CI 77019)

Natural (Mineral) (➃)Description/Use: A mineral pigment that gives products a shimmering or glittering effect. Often used in color cosmetics, but also in skincare products for a subtle glow.

N

Nasturtium Officinale (Watercress) Flower/Leaf Extract

Plant-based, often organic (➀ / *)Description/Benefits: Rich in vitamins (A, C, K) and minerals. Known for its cleansing, antioxidant, and revitalizing properties. Can help clarify the skin's appearance and protect it from environmental influences.

Nigella Sativa (Black Cumin) Seed Oil

Plant-based, often organically grown (➀)Description/Benefits: Contains valuable ingredients such as thymoquinone. Known for its antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. Traditionally used for skin problems such as acne, eczema, or psoriasis.

O

Octyldodecanol (octyldodecanol)

Fatty alcohol, can be of plant or synthetic origin. Description/Benefits: An emollient that makes the skin soft and supple. It also acts as a solvent and improves the spreadability of products.

Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil

Plant-based, often organically grown (➀)Description/Benefits: Very rich in gamma-linolenic acid (GLA). It has powerful regenerating, anti-inflammatory, soothing, and moisturizing effects. Ideal for dry, sensitive, mature, itchy, or atopic dermatitis skin.

Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil (Olive Oil)

Plant-based, often organically grown (➀)Description/Benefits: Rich in oleic acid, vitamin E, and polyphenols. A classic skincare oil that nourishes, protects, retains moisture, and has antioxidant properties. Especially good for dry and mature skin.

Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiables (unsaponifiable parts of olive oil)

Plant-basedDescription/Benefits: The particularly valuable part of olive oil, rich in squalene, phytosterols, and tocopherols. It has powerful regenerating, moisturizing, barrier-strengthening, and antioxidant properties.

Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil (Rice Germ Oil)

Plant-based Description/Benefits: Contains gamma oryzanol, vitamin E, and phytosterols. It has antioxidant, moisturizing, and soothing properties and can protect the skin from UV-induced damage. A lightweight oil that absorbs easily.

Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Wax (Rice Germ Wax)

Plant-basedDescription/Benefits: A natural wax that acts as a thickener and emollient. Forms a light protective film on the skin to retain moisture.

P

Paeonia Lactiflora (Peony) Root Extract

Herbal Description/Benefits: Rich in paeoniflorin. Known for its antioxidant, soothing, and skin-brightening properties. May help even skin tone and protect the skin from oxidative stress.

Palmitic Acid

Fatty acid, can be of plant or animal origin (plant-based in vegan cosmetics). Description/Benefits: A saturated fatty acid that acts as an emollient, emulsifier, or cleansing agent. It makes the skin soft and supple and can help strengthen the skin barrier.

Panthenol (Panthenol / D-Panthenol / Provitamin B5)

Often produced biotechnologically. Description/Benefits: Converted to pantothenic acid (vitamin B5) in the skin. It has a strong moisturizing, soothing, anti-inflammatory effect and promotes wound healing. Strengthens the skin barrier and improves skin elasticity.

Parfum/Fragrance (Perfume/Fragrance)

May be a blend of natural (essential oils) and/or synthetic fragrances. Description/Benefit: Gives products a pleasant scent. Flam Skin emphasizes mild, low-allergen, or natural fragrances (see "Blacklist" for toxic fragrances).

Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil (Geranium Oil)

Plant-based (from the flowers of the rose geranium) Description/Benefits: Essential oil with a floral, rose-like, slightly minty scent. It has a balancing, astringent, and skin-conditioning effect. It can have a harmonizing effect in aromatherapy. Contains natural fragrance components such as geraniol and citronellol.

Pentylene Glycol (Pentylene Glycol)

Can be produced from plant sources (e.g., sugarcane bagasse) or synthetically. Description/Benefits: A multifunctional ingredient. It has moisturizing and antimicrobial properties (supports preservation), and improves the absorption of other active ingredients. It is considered well-tolerated.

Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil

Plant-based (from the flesh of the avocado), often organically grown (➀)Description/Benefits: A highly nourishing oil, rich in vitamins (A, D, E), lecithin, and unsaturated fatty acids. Intensively nourishes, moisturizes, promotes cell regeneration, and restores softness and elasticity to dry, chapped skin.

Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract (Diatom Extract)

Plant-based (from a microalgae species) Description/Benefits: Rich in omega-3 fatty acids (EPA) and antioxidants. May strengthen the skin barrier, reduce inflammation, and protect the skin from oxidative stress.

Phenethyl Alcohol

Can occur synthetically or naturally (e.g., in rose oil). Description/Benefits: Has a mild rose scent and antimicrobial properties. Used as a fragrance and gentle preservative.

Pinene (Pinene)

Natural fragrance, the main component of pine needle oil, also found in rosemary and eucalyptus (from natural essential oils ➁ / ➂). Description/Benefits: Provides a fresh, resinous, woody scent. Can also have an invigorating effect. Is a declarable allergen.

Pogostemon Cablin Oil (Patchouli Oil)

Herbal (from the leaves of the patchouli plant) Description/Benefits: Essential oil with a heavy, earthy, sweet-woody scent. It is valued in aromatherapy for its grounding and calming properties. It is used in cosmetics as a fragrance and for its regenerating and anti-inflammatory effects.

Polyhydroxystearic acid

Plant-based (often from castor oil)Description/Benefits: A dispersant and emulsion stabilizer commonly used in mineral sunscreens to improve the dispersion of UV filter particles and reduce whitening. It makes products smoother.

Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate

Plant-based (ester) Description/Benefits: An emulsifier that helps stabilize water-in-oil emulsions. Often used in sunscreens and waterproof formulations. Considered very skin-friendly.

Polyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate

Plant-based (esters of castor oil and polyglycerin) Description/Benefits: A mild emulsifier for water-in-oil emulsions. Conditions the skin and helps maintain formulation stability.

Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate

Plant-based (esters of stearic acid and polyglycerin) Description/Benefits: A mild emulsifier that helps bind oil and water. Contributes to a pleasant skin feel.

Polyglyceryl-6 Behenate

Plant-based (esters of behenic acid and polyglycerin)Description/Benefits: A mild emulsifier and emollient that conditions the skin and improves the texture of products.

Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate

Plant-based (esters of stearic acid and polyglycerin)Description/Benefits: A mild emulsifier that creates stable oil-in-water emulsions and leaves the skin feeling pleasant.

Porphyra Umbilicalis Extract (Purple Kelp Extract)

Plant-based (from a red algae species) Description/Benefits: Rich in proteins, vitamins, and mycosporin-like amino acids (MAAs), which serve as the algae's natural UV protection mechanism. May protect the skin from photoaging, provide moisture, and act as an antioxidant.

Potassium Hydroxide (Potassium Hydroxide) – See under K

Potassium Sorbate (Potassium Sorbate) – See under K

Propanediol (propanediol)

Can be made from corn sugar (plant-based) or synthetically. Description/Benefits: A humectant, solvent, and viscosity regulator. Improves skin feel and product absorption. Considered a well-tolerated alternative to propylene glycol.

Propylene Glycol (propylene glycol)

SyntheticDescription/Benefits: A humectant and solvent. Helps transport other active ingredients into the skin. Although used in many cosmetics, it can sometimes cause irritation on very sensitive skin. Check if this ingredient fits your "clean beauty" philosophy, as some brands avoid it.

Prunus Amygdalus (Almond) Dulcis Oil / Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil

Plant-based (from sweet almonds), often organically grown (➀)Description/Benefits: A very mild, well-tolerated oil, rich in oleic acid and vitamin E. Keeps the skin supple, soothes irritations and is ideal for dry, sensitive and baby skin.

Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil

Plant-based (from apricot kernels), often organically grown (➀) Description/Benefits: A light, easily absorbed oil rich in oleic and linoleic acids. It nourishes the skin, leaving it velvety soft, moisturizing, and supporting skin elasticity. Good for all skin types, especially dry and mature skin.

Prunus Domestica (Plum) Fruit Extract / Seed Oil

Plant-based, often organically grown (➀)Description/Benefits: Fruit extract: Rich in antioxidants and vitamins, can have moisturizing and protective effects. Kernel oil: Rich in vitamin E and essential fatty acids, nourishes and keeps the skin supple, often with a pleasant marzipan scent.

Pyrus Cydonia (Quince) Fruit Extract

Plant-based, often organic (➀)Description/Benefits: Rich in mucilage, pectin, and vitamin C. Moisturizing, soothing, and slightly astringent. Can help smooth and refresh the skin.

Q

Quercus Robur (Oak) Bark Extract

Plant-based, often organic (➀)Description/Benefits: Rich in tannins. Known for its strong astringent, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. Often used for oily, large-pored skin or to care for irritated skin.

R

Rhamnose

A natural sugar that can be obtained from plants. Description/Benefits: Known for its anti-aging properties. Can stimulate collagen production, improve skin firmness, and have a soothing effect. Often found in complexes with glucose and glucuronic acid.

Rhodomyrtus Tomentosa (Rose Myrtle) Fruit Extract

Plant-basedDescription/Benefits: Rich in antioxidants. Can help protect the skin from oxidative stress and is often used in products for blemished skin because it is said to have sebum-regulating and antibacterial properties.

Rhus Succedanea Fruit Wax (sumac wax / Japanese wax)

Plant-based (from the berries of the Japanese lacquer sumac) Description/Benefits: A plant-based wax that acts as a thickener and emollient. It gives products a pleasant texture and forms a soft, protective film on the skin.

Rhus Verniciflua Peel Cera / Rhus Succedanea Fruit Cera (berry wax)

Plant-based (from the husk of the lacquer tree berries) Description/Benefits: A soft plant-based wax used as a thickener and emollient. It gives products a smooth texture and conditions the skin.

Ribes Grossularia (Gooseberry) Fruit Extract

Plant-based, often organic (➀)Description/Benefits: Rich in vitamin C, fruit acids, and antioxidants. Can refresh the skin, brighten the complexion, and protect against free radicals.

Ribes Nigrum (Black Currant) Fruit Extract

Plant-based, often organically grown (➀)Description/Benefits: Very rich in anthocyanins (powerful antioxidants), vitamin C, and gamma-linolenic acid. Protects the skin from oxidative stress, has anti-inflammatory properties, and can strengthen the skin barrier.

Rosa Canina (Rosehip) Fruit Extract / Fruit Oil (Rosehip fruit extract / seed oil)

Plant-based, often organically grown (➀)Description/Benefits: Rich in vitamins (especially vitamin C in the fruit extract, provitamin A in the kernel oil), antioxidants, and essential fatty acids. Promotes cell regeneration, can reduce scars and dark spots, has antioxidant properties, and improves skin elasticity. Ideal for mature, dry, or stressed skin.

Rosa Damascena (Rose) Flower Water (rose blossom water / rose hydrosol)

Plant-based (a byproduct of the steam distillation of Damask rose petals), often organically grown (➀)Description/Benefits: Has a delicate rose scent. It has moisturizing, soothing, toning, and slightly astringent properties. Leaves the skin feeling fresh and balanced.

Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract

Plant-based, often organic (➀)Description/Benefits: Powerful antioxidant, circulation-stimulating, and antimicrobial. Often used as a natural preservative (to stabilize oils) and to revitalize the skin.

S

Salicylic Acid

Beta hydroxy acid (BHA) can be obtained synthetically or naturally (e.g., from willow bark). Description/Benefits: Fat-soluble and therefore penetrates pores easily. It has exfoliating, comedolytic (dissolves blackheads), anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial effects. Very effective for blemished, oily, and acne-prone skin.

Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract

Plant-based, often organic (➀)Description/Benefits: Known for its astringent, antimicrobial, and antiperspirant properties. Can help tighten pores, combat impurities, and balance oily skin.

Sambucus Nigra (Elder) Fruit / Flower Extract

Plant-based, often organically grown (➀)Description/Benefits: Rich in flavonoids and antioxidants. Flower extract: Soothing, skin-tightening, and toning. Fruit extract: Powerful antioxidant, protects the skin from free radicals.

Sclerotium Gum (Sclerotium Gum)

Natural (polysaccharide obtained by fermenting a fungus) Description/Benefits: A natural gelling and thickening agent that creates stable and pleasant textures. It also has moisturizing and skin-conditioning properties.

Shorea Robusta Resin (sal tree resin)

Plant-based (sal tree resin) Description/Benefits: Used as a film-forming and consistency agent. Can help improve the texture of products and form a light protective film.

Silica (silicic acid)

Mineral Description/Benefits: Used as a matting agent (absorbs oil), thickener, filler, or mild abrasive. Can provide a silky skin feel.

Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil

Plant-based (from the seeds of the jojoba shrub), often organically grown (➀ / *)Description/Benefits: Chemically, a liquid wax very similar to human sebum. Absorbs easily without leaving a greasy film. Intensively nourishes, protects against moisture loss, has a balancing effect (even on oily skin), and leaves the skin soft and supple.

Sodium Anisate

Anisic acid salt (from anise or fennel) Description/Benefits: Has antimicrobial properties and is used as a natural preservative. It also has a pH-regulating effect.

Sodium Benzoate

Benzoic acid salt.Description/Use: A preservative that inhibits the growth of fungi, yeasts, and some bacteria.

Sodium Chloride (sodium chloride / table salt)

Natural (mineral) Description/Benefits: Used as a thickener (especially in surfactant products), consistency regulator, or mild exfoliating agent. Can have a drying effect in high concentrations.

Sodium Cocoamphoacetate

A very mild, coconut oil-based surfactant. Description/Benefits: A particularly mild, amphoteric surfactant that gently cleanses, lathers well, and can improve the skin tolerance of other surfactants. Ideal for sensitive skin and baby products.

Sodium Coco-Sulphate (sodium cocosulfate)

Anionic surfactant derived from coconut oil. Description/Benefits: A cleansing surfactant that creates a good lather. Considered a slightly milder alternative to sodium laureth/lauryl sulfate, but can still be drying for very sensitive skin. Often found as the primary surfactant in certified natural products.

Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate

Mild amino acid-based surfactant (from coconut oil and glutamic acid). Description/Benefits: A very mild, skin-friendly surfactant that gently cleanses and forms a creamy lather. Highly biodegradable and suitable for sensitive skin.

Sodium Hyaluronate (sodium hyaluronate / hyaluronic acid)

A salt of hyaluronic acid, often produced biotechnologically. Description/Benefits: An excellent moisture binder. Provides intensive moisture, plumps up fine lines caused by dryness, and improves skin elasticity. Often available in different molecular weights for effects at different skin depths.

Sodium Levulinate

Levulinic acid salt (from plant sugars) Description/Benefits: Has antimicrobial properties and is used as a natural preservative. It also has a skin-conditioning effect.

Sodium PCA (sodium PCA)

A natural component of the skin's own moisturizing factor (NMF). Salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid. Description/Benefits: A very good humectant. Binds water in the skin, protects against dehydration, and keeps the skin supple and hydrated.

Sodium Phytate (sodium phytate / phytic acid salt)

Natural chelating agent (from plants such as rice or corn) Description/Benefits: Binds metal ions and can thus improve the stability and effectiveness of products (prevents oxidation). Can also have a slight skin-lightening effect.

Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Fruit Extract

Plant-based, often organically grown (➀)Description/Benefits: Rich in lycopene, a powerful antioxidant, and vitamins. Protects the skin from free radicals and photoaging.

Sorbitan Caprylate

Plant-based (ester)Description/Benefits: A multifunctional ingredient that acts as an emulsifier and thickener and also has antimicrobial properties, which can contribute to preservation.

Sorbitan Olivate (sorbitan olivate)

Plant-based (esters of sorbitan and olive oil fatty acids) Description/Benefits: A mild emulsifier that helps combine oil and water to form stable emulsions. Conditions the skin and supports the skin barrier.

Sorbus Aucuparia (Rowan) Fruit Extract

Plant-based, often organically grown (➀)Description/Benefits: Rich in vitamin C, fruit acids, and antioxidants. Can have astringent, tonic, and antioxidant effects.

Spirulina Platensis Extract (Spirulina algae extract)

Plant-based (from a type of blue-green algae) Description/Benefits: Extremely rich in nutrients (proteins, vitamins, minerals, antioxidants). Can revitalize, moisturize, detoxify, and protect the skin from oxidative stress.

Squalane (Squalane) – See above, already described in detail in the blog posts. Short form:

Plant-based (from olives or sugar cane) Description/Benefits: A lightweight, naturally occurring lipid that intensely moisturizes, strengthens the skin barrier, and leaves a silky-smooth feel without a greasy residue. Non-comedogenic.

Stearic Acid

Fatty acid, can be of plant or animal origin (plant-based in vegan cosmetics). Description/Benefits: Serves as an emollient, emulsifier, or thickener. Softens the skin, improves the consistency of creams, and can help stabilize the skin barrier.

Sucrose Cocoate

Plant-based (esters of sucrose and coconut fatty acids) Description/Benefits: A mild emulsifier and co-surfactant with moisturizing properties. Helps gently cleanse the skin while protecting it from dryness.

Sucrose Laurate (Sucrose Laurate)

Plant-derived (ester of sucrose and lauric acid) Description/Benefits: A mild emulsifier and co-surfactant that also has cleansing properties. Can help create oil-gel formulations that transform into a milk upon contact with water.

Sucrose Palmitate (Sucrose Palmitate)

Plant-based (esters of sucrose and palmitic acid)Description/Benefits: An emulsifier and emollient that conditions the skin and improves the texture of products.

T

Terpineol

Natural fragrance, found in many essential oils (e.g. pine, lavender, juniper) (from natural essential oils ➁).Description/Benefits: Imparts a floral scent, often reminiscent of lilac.

Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter (Cocoa Butter)

Plant-based (from cocoa beans), often organically grown (➀)Description/Benefits: A very rich, solid butter that melts on contact with the skin. Intensely nourishing and moisturizing, it forms a protective film on the skin. Ideal for very dry, chapped skin and for the prevention of stretch marks.

Tilia Cordata (Linden) Flower Extract

Plant-based, often organic (➀)Description/Benefits: Known for its soothing, anti-irritant, and moisturizing properties. Ideal for sensitive and dry skin.

Tin Oxide

Mineral (➃)Description/Use: Often used in conjunction with mica and other shimmering pigments to enhance their shine and color effect.

Tocopherol (vitamin E)

Can be obtained synthetically or naturally (e.g., from vegetable oils such as sunflower oil). Description/Benefits: A powerful antioxidant. Protects skin cells from free radical damage, supports skin regeneration, moisturizes, and can improve skin elasticity. It also serves as an antioxidant to stabilize oils in products.

Tridecane (Tridecane)

Can be of plant origin (e.g., coconut oil) or synthetic. Description/Benefits: A light, non-greasy emollient that softens the skin and improves the spreadability of products. A natural alternative to silicones.

Triethyl Citrate (Triethyl Citrate)

Plant-based (citric acid ester) Description/Benefits: Used as a deodorant active (inhibits the enzymatic breakdown of sweat), solvent, or film former. Can also help stabilize pH.

Tripleurospermum Maritimum Extract (Real Beach Chamomile / Sea Chamomile Extract)

Herbal Description/Benefits: Known for its soothing, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties, it can help relieve skin irritations and protect the skin from stressors.

U

Undaria Pinnatifida Extract (Wakame Algae Extract)

Plant-based (from a type of brown algae) Description/Benefits: Rich in fucoidan, vitamins, and minerals. Can moisturize the skin, stimulate collagen and elastin production, provide antioxidant benefits, and improve skin elasticity.

Undecane

Can be of plant origin (e.g., coconut oil) or synthetic. Description/Benefits: A very light, non-greasy emollient that absorbs quickly and leaves the skin feeling silky smooth. A natural alternative to silicones, often used in combination with tridecane.

V

Vaccinium Macrocarpon (Cranberry) Seed Oil

Plant-based, often organic (➀)Description/Benefits: A balanced oil rich in antioxidants (tocopherols, tocotrienols) and omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids. Protects the skin from free radicals, moisturizes, and supports the skin barrier.

Vaccinium Myrtillus (Blueberry) Fruit Extract / Seed Oil

Plant-based, often organic (➀) Description/Benefits: Fruit extract: Very rich in anthocyanins (powerful antioxidants), protects the skin from oxidative stress and can have a soothing effect. Seed oil: Rich in essential fatty acids and vitamin E, nourishes and regenerates.

Vaccinium Vitis-Idaea (Lingonberry/Cranberry) Fruit Extract

Plant-based, often organic (➀)Description/Benefits: Rich in antioxidants (especially resveratrol and quercetin), vitamins C and E. Protects the skin from free radicals, can have a skin-lightening effect and improve skin elasticity.

Vanillin

The main flavoring agent in vanilla, it can be natural or synthetic. Description/Use: Imparts a warm, sweet vanilla scent. Used as a fragrance.

Vegetable oil

Plant-basedDescription/Benefits: A general term for an oil or blend of oils of plant origin. It acts as an emollient, provides lipids, and conditions the skin. Specific properties depend on the plant.

Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Leaf Extract / Seed Extract

Plant-based, often organically grown (➀) Description/Benefits: Vine leaf extract: Rich in flavonoids, can strengthen blood vessels and promote circulation. Grape seed extract: Extremely rich in OPC (oligomeric proanthocyanidins), one of the most powerful antioxidants. Intensively protects the skin from free radicals, stabilizes collagen, and has anti-inflammatory effects.

X

Xanthan Gum

Natural (polysaccharide obtained by fermenting sugar with Xanthomonas bacteria) Description/Benefits: A highly effective natural gelling and thickening agent. Stabilizes emulsions and suspensions and gives products a pleasant texture. It also has a slightly moisturizing effect.

Xylitol (xylitol / birch sugar)

Natural (sugar alcohol, often derived from birch bark or corn) Description/Benefits: Moisturizing and can help strengthen the skin barrier. Often part of a moisturizing complex (e.g., with anhydroxylitol and xylitylglucosides).

Xylityl glucoside (xylityl glucoside)

Plant origin (from wood sugars and glucose) Description/Benefits: Part of a moisturizing complex. Helps optimize the skin's moisture balance by reducing water loss and increasing water reserves in the skin. Strengthens the skin barrier.

Z

Zinc Oxide

Mineral Description/Benefits: A mineral UV filter that protects against UVA and UVB rays (broad-spectrum protection). It also has anti-inflammatory, soothing, and mildly astringent properties. It is often used in sunscreens and products for sensitive or blemished skin.

Zinc PCA (Zinc PCA)

A salt of zinc and pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA). It has sebum-regulating, antimicrobial, and moisturizing properties. Ideal for oily, blemished, and acne-prone skin, as it helps balance sebum production without over-drying the skin.